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Discussion of problems of extracting archaeological information on textiles and textile production from written sources.
2008 •
Older than both ceramics and metallurgy, textile production is a technology which reveals much about prehistoric social and economic development. This book examines the archaeological evidence for textile production in Italy from the transition between the Bronze Age and Early Iron Ages until the Roman expansion (1000-400 BCE), and sheds light on both the process of technological development and the emergence of large urban centres with specialised crafts. Margarita Gleba begins with an overview of the prehistoric Appennine peninsula, which featured cultures such as the Villanovans and the Etruscans, and was connected through colonisation and trade with the other parts of the Mediterranean. She then focuses on the textiles themselves: their appearance in written and iconographic sources, the fibres and dyes employed, how they were produced and what they were used for: we learn, for instance, of the linen used in sails and rigging on Etruscan ships, and of the complex looms needed to produce twill. Featuring a comprehensive analysis of textiles remains and textile tools from the period, the book recovers information about funerary ritual, the sexual differentiation of labour (the spinners and weavers were usually women) and the important role the exchange of luxury textiles played in the emergence of an elite. Textile production played a part in ancient Italian society's change from an egalitarian to an aristocratic social structure, and in the emergence of complex urban communities.
Purpureae Vestes VI
Textile production and consumption in Roman Venetia (Italy): preliminary results of the study of mineralised fibres and textiles2018 •
This paper summarises the results of the TRAMA (Textiles in Roman Archaeology: Methods and Analysis) project, which aims to analyse Roman textiles from Venetia. As elsewhere in Italy, because of the unfavourable climatic conditions and geological features, fibres, yarns and textiles are rarely preserved in this area, with only one Roman fabric known until recently. This project focuses on a systematic census of organic and mineralised fabrics, in order to better understand textile production and consumption patterns in the region, which was praised for the high quality of its textile products by contemporary writers. To date, 29 artefacts found in the Veneto Region with preserved, mineralised textile traces have been recorded and analysed. These are predominantly bronze or iron objects that were excavated from funerary contexts in urban (including Padua, Verona, Altino, Este) and rural cemeteries. The textile traces include linen and wool fabrics of various qualities. This study provides new data regarding textile production and the funerary rituals, offering for the first time a picture of textiles produced in the area.
2014 •
in Dross-Krüpe, K. (ed.) Textile trade and distribution in antiquity. Wiesbaden: Harassowitz, 1-16.
Arkæologi i Slesvig / Archäologie in Schleswig Sonderband „Det 61. Internationale Sachsensymposion 2010“, Haderslev, Danmark
Textile Production in the Late Roman Iron Age. A Case Study of Textile Production in Vorbasse, Denmark2011 •
Textiles have an enormous potential in archaeological research as it enables knowledge about both social and cultural aspects of ancient societies, as well as giving us a unique opportunity to come close to the prehistoric individual. A textile is not simply a binary system of spun, plied or spliced fibres, but first and foremost a result of complex interactions between resources, technology and society. The catalysts for this interaction are the need, desire and demand of the society in question, which in turn influence the exploitation of resources and technological development. Conversely, the availability of resources and the state of technology condition the societal choices and developments. The totality of these interactions is expressed through textile production.
2017 •
Iconographic sources indicate that textiles were used for a variety of purposes by the Etruscans, Paleovenetians, Faliscans and other inhabitants of ancient Italy but until recently little was known about what these textiles actually were like. The latest and ongoing studies of the surviving fabric remains found primarily in burial contexts are for the first time permitting not only qualitative but also quantitative assessment of the data. The paper focuses on the recently analysed textile remains from across Italy, and places them in the wider context of Italian and European pre-Roman textile production.
2014 •
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